Yes, this is the second post that I have started with an emoticon. No, I am not ashamed.
So, Matt and I are in Lhasa and I gotta tell you, I gotta tell you that it is pretty damn cool here and I already LOVE it here. The western side of the city pretty much looks like a Chinese city anywhere, but once you go over to the east side - it is a whole new world. I will have to tip-toe around certain political issues here - and if you post a comment, best not to voice your personal feelings about this area. You can probably guess what my feelings about it are - the eastern side doesn't really feel like you are even in China (ahem, ahem, wink, wink, nudge, nudge) and it is really refreshing.
I just can't even begin to describe how cool it is here. We wound up flying - sort of wussed out but, no one seemed to know what was going on with the train situation and we didn't want to wait around longer until someone did. Yes, true, we could have jumped a bus from Golmud. But we would have to first get to Golmud and pay just as much to travel from there on a bus. So, flying. We have never regretted flying. Clean and fast. Oooh, baby! So nice!
We arrived and hopped an airport bus to the city. The landscape was beautiful on the way from the airport - the clouds seemed so low. The bus drove by the Potala Palace - the winter residence to a number of the Dali Lamas. I have to say that it is one of the coolest buildings I have ever seen! I will try to snap some pictures, but I don't think that they will do it justice.
We actually lucked out and found a hotel (with some help) and the room is very nice. Because of the train, hotels are really booked up. We grabbed a great dinner at a really relaxing place and explored the Barkhor Market after. The scene was really something else! Both sides of the marketplace were lined with stalls and stores. The Barkhor is also one of the "koras" - pilgrimage paths. So we followed the worshippers around the path - the worshippers were praying and reciting mantras while fingering beads or spinning a prayer rattle. Some were prostrating the entire stretch of the path. There were all kinds of interesting people to look at. The people don't look anything like the people we have seen elsewhere in China. I just don't have the vocabulary to describe the scene right now - I am fairly tired.
So,we both are really excited to be here and are looking forward to some more exploration. The altitude isn't really bothering us yet, but I guess the effects can take up to 24 hours before you really get symptoms.
Oh,the emoticon - I was reading that a common greeting in the countryside is to stick out your tongue. This is to determine who is a human and who is a demon. Demons will have a green tongue even when they are in a human form.
Okay, so that is all for now, but I will write more later after some good shut eye.
Sunday, July 30, 2006
Saturday, July 29, 2006
Big Stuff in Qinghai
So, our time in Xining is drawing to a close. Tomorrow we will be hopping a plane to Lhasa. Both of us are really excited about this trip! The "Roof top of the world" and "Shangri-la". Cool. We really don't know what to expect there. We have been told that Lhasa is really Chinese in feeling and to try to travel out. With the new train line that has been opened, new restrictions for foreigners shortly followed. It will be interesting to see what we can do, what we can't do, how much the things we can do are and how much the things we can't do wind up being. Many things are, umm, "negotiable" here.
What have we been up to in Xining? Well, not a whole heck of a lot. A couple of days ago we went out to see the very large Qinghai Lake. It is a large salt water, "surreal" lake. And well, yes, that is correct. Large lake. Don't know about "surreal", but it was, um, water. It seems that many of the sites that we have gone to see natural and unnatural usually aren't worth the money we pay to go see them. Sure, there are exceptions, but how much do I really want to pay to see a large, gold, painted plaster statue? Also, we have to pay to see natural features like the lake. Not a small amount either, then pay to take the tram around the area, pay to take a boat out, etc. Usually when we conclude our day we are relieved to be off of the tour (Chinese tours are definitely one of the circles of hell) and our general thinking is not how cool the experience was, but at least we won't wonder what we missed.
Anyhow, about the lake. It was an interesting area. Coming from the very brown and dry Guyuan, Xining is very lush in comparison. I enjoyed looking out at the green hillsides. It was almost as if someone covered all of the hills with velvet green drapery. It was beautiful! The scenery was also very interesting - these green hills turn into rocky hills which turn into sand dunes which turn back into green hills.... We had a great tour guide, but concluded that being a Chinese tour guide would be horrible! He spoke some English and he seemed to be excited that some foreigners were on his tour - I think that we were his first.
We also met a couple of people from Poland who were traveling up from India, Nepal through Tibet into China. They were fun to talk to and they were able to give us some travel advice about traveling around Lhasa and Tibet. They also told us about visiting Poland and Belarus, the guy was very excited about Belarus (see Matt's blog). We were able to share some frustrations we have experienced along the way and got some laughs. When we went our separate ways - he called out, "see you in Poland!"
What else...
Today we walked by one of the largest mosques in Western China. Again, yes, it was big. Foreigners aren't allowed inside, so we just gazed at its bigness from across the street. It was fairly unremarkable though. It just seemed to lack the character we have seen in other mosques here in China. But, yes, it was big, so there you are.
Now, we are just trying to get everything together for the trip out to Lhasa and who knows where else in Tibet - we'll see what the PSB will allow us to do. Hopefully the altitude won't make us sick for too long and even more so, hopefully neither of us will have a case of acute mountain sickness and have to leave.
The next time I check in will be from Lhasa. If you have any shopping requests, please drop me a comment. I may not be able to fulfill any of them as, well, I am a volunteer and all, making a volunteer's salary. But, at least I will be able to try to bargain for some things and you may get lucky!
What have we been up to in Xining? Well, not a whole heck of a lot. A couple of days ago we went out to see the very large Qinghai Lake. It is a large salt water, "surreal" lake. And well, yes, that is correct. Large lake. Don't know about "surreal", but it was, um, water. It seems that many of the sites that we have gone to see natural and unnatural usually aren't worth the money we pay to go see them. Sure, there are exceptions, but how much do I really want to pay to see a large, gold, painted plaster statue? Also, we have to pay to see natural features like the lake. Not a small amount either, then pay to take the tram around the area, pay to take a boat out, etc. Usually when we conclude our day we are relieved to be off of the tour (Chinese tours are definitely one of the circles of hell) and our general thinking is not how cool the experience was, but at least we won't wonder what we missed.
Anyhow, about the lake. It was an interesting area. Coming from the very brown and dry Guyuan, Xining is very lush in comparison. I enjoyed looking out at the green hillsides. It was almost as if someone covered all of the hills with velvet green drapery. It was beautiful! The scenery was also very interesting - these green hills turn into rocky hills which turn into sand dunes which turn back into green hills.... We had a great tour guide, but concluded that being a Chinese tour guide would be horrible! He spoke some English and he seemed to be excited that some foreigners were on his tour - I think that we were his first.
We also met a couple of people from Poland who were traveling up from India, Nepal through Tibet into China. They were fun to talk to and they were able to give us some travel advice about traveling around Lhasa and Tibet. They also told us about visiting Poland and Belarus, the guy was very excited about Belarus (see Matt's blog). We were able to share some frustrations we have experienced along the way and got some laughs. When we went our separate ways - he called out, "see you in Poland!"
What else...
Today we walked by one of the largest mosques in Western China. Again, yes, it was big. Foreigners aren't allowed inside, so we just gazed at its bigness from across the street. It was fairly unremarkable though. It just seemed to lack the character we have seen in other mosques here in China. But, yes, it was big, so there you are.
Now, we are just trying to get everything together for the trip out to Lhasa and who knows where else in Tibet - we'll see what the PSB will allow us to do. Hopefully the altitude won't make us sick for too long and even more so, hopefully neither of us will have a case of acute mountain sickness and have to leave.
The next time I check in will be from Lhasa. If you have any shopping requests, please drop me a comment. I may not be able to fulfill any of them as, well, I am a volunteer and all, making a volunteer's salary. But, at least I will be able to try to bargain for some things and you may get lucky!
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Remember the '80s
So, I have finally gotten around to reading a certain book about the early-mid eighties here in China. I have to say that it is especially interesting reading it here. There are many things (so far) that seem to be coincidental similarities from the book to the history/society that I am currently living in.
Or well
Oops...
I mean, "oh, well"
Or well
Oops...
I mean, "oh, well"
Tuesday, July 25, 2006
Ramblings by Matt
I didn't want you to miss Matt's latest post:
Little Buddhist Dogs Attacked Me
Today we visted Ta'er Si, one of the most important Tibetan monastaries in Qinghai. We spent the afternoon meandering around and I managed to meander into a courtyard next to the yak butter sculptures that was apparently off limits.
Usually, it is fairly comical to see little dogs attempt to ward off intruders. They bark, twirl, do backflips, whatever. As it was this time. But they were emboldened by their numbers.
Of course, it didn't actually strike me that I should be concerned when these five little lap ornaments drew near. Afterall, we were in a holy place and their master was probably some revered holy man. This was not a place of violence. And, they were little.
Then one bit me. Right on the lower calf.
Which places one in a predicament in a venerated monastary. Is it okay to kick a dog in self-defense? How about scaring them? Is it permissible to bark back? Or growl? How stupid am I willing to look?
And, given that they were buddhist dogs, were they really dogs? Was this actually some errant holy man from a past life now, literally, nipping at my heels.
Unlike them, I chose the peaceful path and walked out of the courtyard. They followed, but then I reached the steps. It was a pretty steep first step.
So, I didn't get to see what was inside the buildings next to the courtyard. However, I'd like to think I earned some good karma in the process.
And I'd like to think that the dog that bit me will soon be a cat.
Little Buddhist Dogs Attacked Me
Today we visted Ta'er Si, one of the most important Tibetan monastaries in Qinghai. We spent the afternoon meandering around and I managed to meander into a courtyard next to the yak butter sculptures that was apparently off limits.
Usually, it is fairly comical to see little dogs attempt to ward off intruders. They bark, twirl, do backflips, whatever. As it was this time. But they were emboldened by their numbers.
Of course, it didn't actually strike me that I should be concerned when these five little lap ornaments drew near. Afterall, we were in a holy place and their master was probably some revered holy man. This was not a place of violence. And, they were little.
Then one bit me. Right on the lower calf.
Which places one in a predicament in a venerated monastary. Is it okay to kick a dog in self-defense? How about scaring them? Is it permissible to bark back? Or growl? How stupid am I willing to look?
And, given that they were buddhist dogs, were they really dogs? Was this actually some errant holy man from a past life now, literally, nipping at my heels.
Unlike them, I chose the peaceful path and walked out of the courtyard. They followed, but then I reached the steps. It was a pretty steep first step.
So, I didn't get to see what was inside the buildings next to the courtyard. However, I'd like to think I earned some good karma in the process.
And I'd like to think that the dog that bit me will soon be a cat.
Monday, July 24, 2006
Two Monks, an American and a Korean...
We just got back from looking at a Buddhist monastery. It was interesting, but I think that the buildings are more interesting than the actual contents inside - usually a large, gold plaster statue. But I'm getting ahead of myself once again.
We finally made it to Xining! We rolled into to town really early in the morning (around midnight). We don't know why, maybe all of the people trying to take the train to Lhasa, but we could not find a hotel room. We had the bus drop us off at one place, which was closed and locked shut. So we set off looking for alternative lodging. Suddenly, the sky just opened up and started to down pour. We ran over to where some people were beckoning for us to come over. They had some little food tents set up, we told them that we really weren't interested in eating, but we needed to find a hotel for the night. So one of the older women, beckoned a cab over and told the driver to bring us around town until we found a place for the night. She was so nice and helpful - was even worried that I would get cold.
So, Matt and I piled into the cab with our huge backpacks and we set off to find a hotel. One hour later, no luck. Two hours later, no luck. They drove us around everywhere in town and asked the hotels if they had rooms without any luck. Finally, as the third hour approached, the lady asked us about going to a public lodging place. As it was 3 AM anywhere would be fine with us. So, they talked to a man at a boarding place about how there wasn't anywhere for us to go. He eventually let us in. I don't think that this was a place where foreigners were supposed to go. It was nice enough for one night. Shared bathroom with a scary squatter, but the room was clean and we could rest for a couple of hours. When I went to the bathroom, the light was a motion sensor type of switch. I didn't know this. I get all set to do my business - pants down, squatting - aimed over the hole and ready to go. Then the light goes out. I am pants down squatting over a smelly hole in the dark. Since there was nothing I could really do to remedy the situation, I just had to go - I don't know how much actually made it into the toilet, but I know that I did manage to pee on my feet a little.
The next morning I was woken up by a set of vicious mosquitoes and many welts on my arms and one particularly good one on my cheek. We decided to try to find a hotel as we were in a Chinese only place. So, we wound up finding a room down near the train station. The noise is a little bad, but not bad enough to expend the energy to find a new room. We also got a chance to explore the town. Xining is great! Not quite the wild west of China as I was expecting, but neat all the same. The people here look a lot different than the people that we had seen in Guyuan and elsewhere in China. It is an interesting mix of ethnicities.
Anyhow, today we went to a monastery. It was a fun place to look around. Matt got attacked by a pack of little dogs, but he can tell you about that. One of the coolest things was the yak butter sculptures. They were really something else! It makes the butter portraits at the MN state fair look like a kindergarten art project (not that the MN ones aren't cool, it's just, well you know...)
What else...
I GOT PUSHED BY A MONK
I was looking at one of the little alters and there was space all around me and a monk wanted to get by (apparently), so he shoved me out of the way. Seriously. Not a little brush past push not a tap-tap I want to get by sort of thing. I almost fell down. Stop laughing. What is the appropriate response? I decided a little laugh was the best response because you really can't shove a monk back or elbow him in retaliation, right?
Anyhow, we decided to catch a cab back. As we were leaving, a group of monks asked us if a couple of them could hitch a ride with us to Xining (since there was only 2 of us in the cab) and how do you say “no” to a monk who has given up all of his earthly possessions. So we all squeezed in and set off back to Xining. Now, I think we'll go back to the market place, grab a bite to eat and think more about the next leg of our trip.
We finally made it to Xining! We rolled into to town really early in the morning (around midnight). We don't know why, maybe all of the people trying to take the train to Lhasa, but we could not find a hotel room. We had the bus drop us off at one place, which was closed and locked shut. So we set off looking for alternative lodging. Suddenly, the sky just opened up and started to down pour. We ran over to where some people were beckoning for us to come over. They had some little food tents set up, we told them that we really weren't interested in eating, but we needed to find a hotel for the night. So one of the older women, beckoned a cab over and told the driver to bring us around town until we found a place for the night. She was so nice and helpful - was even worried that I would get cold.
So, Matt and I piled into the cab with our huge backpacks and we set off to find a hotel. One hour later, no luck. Two hours later, no luck. They drove us around everywhere in town and asked the hotels if they had rooms without any luck. Finally, as the third hour approached, the lady asked us about going to a public lodging place. As it was 3 AM anywhere would be fine with us. So, they talked to a man at a boarding place about how there wasn't anywhere for us to go. He eventually let us in. I don't think that this was a place where foreigners were supposed to go. It was nice enough for one night. Shared bathroom with a scary squatter, but the room was clean and we could rest for a couple of hours. When I went to the bathroom, the light was a motion sensor type of switch. I didn't know this. I get all set to do my business - pants down, squatting - aimed over the hole and ready to go. Then the light goes out. I am pants down squatting over a smelly hole in the dark. Since there was nothing I could really do to remedy the situation, I just had to go - I don't know how much actually made it into the toilet, but I know that I did manage to pee on my feet a little.
The next morning I was woken up by a set of vicious mosquitoes and many welts on my arms and one particularly good one on my cheek. We decided to try to find a hotel as we were in a Chinese only place. So, we wound up finding a room down near the train station. The noise is a little bad, but not bad enough to expend the energy to find a new room. We also got a chance to explore the town. Xining is great! Not quite the wild west of China as I was expecting, but neat all the same. The people here look a lot different than the people that we had seen in Guyuan and elsewhere in China. It is an interesting mix of ethnicities.
Anyhow, today we went to a monastery. It was a fun place to look around. Matt got attacked by a pack of little dogs, but he can tell you about that. One of the coolest things was the yak butter sculptures. They were really something else! It makes the butter portraits at the MN state fair look like a kindergarten art project (not that the MN ones aren't cool, it's just, well you know...)
What else...
I GOT PUSHED BY A MONK
I was looking at one of the little alters and there was space all around me and a monk wanted to get by (apparently), so he shoved me out of the way. Seriously. Not a little brush past push not a tap-tap I want to get by sort of thing. I almost fell down. Stop laughing. What is the appropriate response? I decided a little laugh was the best response because you really can't shove a monk back or elbow him in retaliation, right?
Anyhow, we decided to catch a cab back. As we were leaving, a group of monks asked us if a couple of them could hitch a ride with us to Xining (since there was only 2 of us in the cab) and how do you say “no” to a monk who has given up all of his earthly possessions. So we all squeezed in and set off back to Xining. Now, I think we'll go back to the market place, grab a bite to eat and think more about the next leg of our trip.
Friday, July 21, 2006
Killing More Time
*sigh*
We went out to the airport yesterday all excited about "hassle free traveling" only to find out that our plane was "broken" and we can't leave for another couple of days.
So, we got ripped off by the cabbie, went back to the hotel we just checked out from and went back to the travel agency to straighten out our ticket situation. I don't think I can spend another 6 hours at an internet cafe like yesterday....
So far, we have not been too impressed with the quality of the things we buy here. Matt has yet to have a watch that will last more than 2 weeks.
Oh well, at least they didn't try to quickly fix the plane - just imagine the announcement, "Um...we are looking for about 20 passengers who currently have some chewing gum...."
We went out to the airport yesterday all excited about "hassle free traveling" only to find out that our plane was "broken" and we can't leave for another couple of days.
So, we got ripped off by the cabbie, went back to the hotel we just checked out from and went back to the travel agency to straighten out our ticket situation. I don't think I can spend another 6 hours at an internet cafe like yesterday....
So far, we have not been too impressed with the quality of the things we buy here. Matt has yet to have a watch that will last more than 2 weeks.
Oh well, at least they didn't try to quickly fix the plane - just imagine the announcement, "Um...we are looking for about 20 passengers who currently have some chewing gum...."
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Killing Time
Our plane doesn't leave until about 11:30 PM tonight. Yes, I did say PLANE! I have decided that I love - LOVE flying! Now, don't get me wrong, the trains are nice and all, but can still be a bit of a hassle when you need to fight for space to put your bag. Plus, I like going to sleep without chicken feet next to my head.
We have had a great time in Dunhuang （post bus ride)! The first major site we went to see were the Mogao caves (thanks for the tip Anajli!). The morning we were looking to head out was rainy. We were told that the bus going out to the caves would not be running because of the rain, and to try back at 1 PM. We didn't think that rain would really matter because the Mogao caves are actual caves you enter with flashlight to look at the paintings and statues. So, we eat. At the cafe, we meet a really friendly German couple and decide to share a taxi out to the caves.
Once there, we found out that yes, the caves were in fact closed due to rain. They told us to check out the little on site museum and check back in about an hour. An hour later, still closed. Later still - we see the Germans in line and they excitedly point to the window and say, "tickets!" We get in line and purchase our chance to see the glorious caverns (with guide) with our new German travel friends.
The caves did not allow us to bring in our cameras, but I wouldn't have taken pictures anyhow (would need flash). I can't even begin to describe just how incredible awesome the caves were! The other big Buddha things that we have seen else where in China were not this awe inspiring. Truly amazing. I will try to send some postcards out sometime....
Okay, I won't go into too much detail, but it is definitely one of the best sites I have seen here in China and worth a visit if you come out this way.
The other big thing we did while out here was visit the singing sands of the Mingsha Shan dunes. I love the desert! The dunes were so beautiful! We went on the touristy camel ride and I was lucky to ride on a very docile, mild-mannered camel. However, something did spook my camel and it did a little run-jump thing and scared the bejeezus out of the little girl ahead of me who started to whine in fear. On the way up the dune, the picture booth kinda ruined the effect for me - a guy in a cowboy hat trying to get us to smile. From his truck, "We Will Rock You" blaring from a half working speaker.
Anyhow, we got off of the camels near the crescent moon lake, which is really not that spectacular, and hiked up one of the dunes. The view was amazing! The dunes were so beautiful and the sand felt great on my feet. We got to the top and waited for the sun to set (see the obscene number of pictures I took on my flickr site). Meanwhile, we got, well, stupid (was it the sand? height? admission price?) and were "comrade posing" (and *shudder* Chinese girl posing) on top of the dune. A group of kids saw Matt striking a particularly good comrade pose and got a huge kick out of it and did some similar posing of their own.
The sunset was spectacular! My pictures just don't capture the brilliance of the colors and the way the sand reflected the sun light. Cool. Seriously Cool.
Anyhow, now we wait. I load pictures and wait.
We have had a great time in Dunhuang （post bus ride)! The first major site we went to see were the Mogao caves (thanks for the tip Anajli!). The morning we were looking to head out was rainy. We were told that the bus going out to the caves would not be running because of the rain, and to try back at 1 PM. We didn't think that rain would really matter because the Mogao caves are actual caves you enter with flashlight to look at the paintings and statues. So, we eat. At the cafe, we meet a really friendly German couple and decide to share a taxi out to the caves.
Once there, we found out that yes, the caves were in fact closed due to rain. They told us to check out the little on site museum and check back in about an hour. An hour later, still closed. Later still - we see the Germans in line and they excitedly point to the window and say, "tickets!" We get in line and purchase our chance to see the glorious caverns (with guide) with our new German travel friends.
The caves did not allow us to bring in our cameras, but I wouldn't have taken pictures anyhow (would need flash). I can't even begin to describe just how incredible awesome the caves were! The other big Buddha things that we have seen else where in China were not this awe inspiring. Truly amazing. I will try to send some postcards out sometime....
Okay, I won't go into too much detail, but it is definitely one of the best sites I have seen here in China and worth a visit if you come out this way.
The other big thing we did while out here was visit the singing sands of the Mingsha Shan dunes. I love the desert! The dunes were so beautiful! We went on the touristy camel ride and I was lucky to ride on a very docile, mild-mannered camel. However, something did spook my camel and it did a little run-jump thing and scared the bejeezus out of the little girl ahead of me who started to whine in fear. On the way up the dune, the picture booth kinda ruined the effect for me - a guy in a cowboy hat trying to get us to smile. From his truck, "We Will Rock You" blaring from a half working speaker.
Anyhow, we got off of the camels near the crescent moon lake, which is really not that spectacular, and hiked up one of the dunes. The view was amazing! The dunes were so beautiful and the sand felt great on my feet. We got to the top and waited for the sun to set (see the obscene number of pictures I took on my flickr site). Meanwhile, we got, well, stupid (was it the sand? height? admission price?) and were "comrade posing" (and *shudder* Chinese girl posing) on top of the dune. A group of kids saw Matt striking a particularly good comrade pose and got a huge kick out of it and did some similar posing of their own.
The sunset was spectacular! My pictures just don't capture the brilliance of the colors and the way the sand reflected the sun light. Cool. Seriously Cool.
Anyhow, now we wait. I load pictures and wait.
Monday, July 17, 2006
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride
Another update from the road!
Thank you to all of you who shared their thoughts about the knicker craze sweeping the East! I enjoyed reading your comments!
Right now I am in Dunhuang (western Gansu) and so far it seems like it is a nice city. Tomorrow we are going out to look at the Mogao Caves and possibly hop on some camels for some more desert fun!
When I was little I seem to remember a theme park ride called, "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride". I remember getting into one of those little cars attached to a rail and going through a tunnel. But nothing much more than that, must not have been too wild. Why am I writing about a children's ride? Why, let me tell you!
We decided to take the express bus out here - about 5 hours and totally doable. I am once again sick with bathroom problems (both ends again), but decide that 5 hours would be okay. So, we board our bus, wedge into the little seat and prepare for our ride out to Dunhuang. What we didn't realize was that there is a ton of road construction going on. Unlike in the states, there isn't an easy detour road that we can take, so we just pull off the road and travel on God's road. Yup, dirt and rock. It was like travelling in/on a huge pothole filled with potholes for 7 hours. Yes, I said 7 hours. You might be thinking, "wait, you said that the bus ride was only 5 hours". Well, the road work seemed to add at least another 3 to that. So we are getting violently rocked back and forth, up and down for HOURS while I am nauseous and have diarrhea (really, really bad diarrhea), it gets better - no bathroom. Everywhere we pull over does not have a bathroom option. Have you even held in your urine and bowels for so long and under such aggravating circumstances that you actually feel like you will pass out? Well, now I can check that off of my list.
So, I decide it is best just to try to go to sleep. Getting lulled by the bus motion wasn't easy, but after a little bit I managed it. Just as I nod off, the lady behind me on the aisle side pokes me on the head. I ignore her. Then the pokes me on the head again. I ignore her again. Third she hits me. I wake up and stare at her, thinking, "what the hell is your problem?" She motions to the window in front of me and motions for me to pull the curtain open. I fumble with it a little but it was stuck and wasn't worth the effort to me. So I just go back to sleep. A minute later she leaps to her feet and reaches over me, making sure to wake me up again with her elbow forcibly placed on my head to tear at the curtain. I can't even begin to tell you how incredible pissed off I was. Mind you, from where she was sitting she really wouldn't be able to even look out the window, much less appreciate the desolate view.
At the next stop off, she made sure to disturb me once again by whipping me in the face a couple of times with the curtain as she tried to tie it back before switching to a different seat which would make my window accessibly not necessary at all. In her new seat she immediately leaned over the woman at the window seat and tore away at that curtain too. She has thus been dubbed the "curtain Nazi". I never was able to really fall back asleep and every time she heard a curtain being moved the "CN" immediately shot me a disgusted look.
So finally, we are about 1 hour away from town and the bus breaks down! For the next 1.5 hours or so the driver and assistant battle the bus transmission every 200-300 meters or so. The bus driver can't shift gears and can only toggle between first and second gears with incredible difficulty. Then it breaks down. They go to fix it, toggle between first and second, break down, etc., etc., etc. Finally, it is unrepairable and they have another bus come and pick us up and drive us into town. We roll into to town just before midnight, we left at 2:30.
Anyhow, we are swarmed at the bus station right after we get off of the bus. I REALLY have to use the bathroom and am in no good mood to deal with the people looking to rip off the tourists.
Long story short, I'm still not in the best of health. Got a little food in me. Slept most of the day (our hotel is actually fairly quiet!) and will hopefully be able to enjoy my time here tomorrow.
Oh, happy birthday, Dad! I spent your special day getting sick on a bus and harassed by the window treatment gestapo. But ate at "Charlie's cafe" and had chocolate souffle in honor of your birthday (thanks for the excuse）！
Thank you to all of you who shared their thoughts about the knicker craze sweeping the East! I enjoyed reading your comments!
Right now I am in Dunhuang (western Gansu) and so far it seems like it is a nice city. Tomorrow we are going out to look at the Mogao Caves and possibly hop on some camels for some more desert fun!
When I was little I seem to remember a theme park ride called, "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride". I remember getting into one of those little cars attached to a rail and going through a tunnel. But nothing much more than that, must not have been too wild. Why am I writing about a children's ride? Why, let me tell you!
We decided to take the express bus out here - about 5 hours and totally doable. I am once again sick with bathroom problems (both ends again), but decide that 5 hours would be okay. So, we board our bus, wedge into the little seat and prepare for our ride out to Dunhuang. What we didn't realize was that there is a ton of road construction going on. Unlike in the states, there isn't an easy detour road that we can take, so we just pull off the road and travel on God's road. Yup, dirt and rock. It was like travelling in/on a huge pothole filled with potholes for 7 hours. Yes, I said 7 hours. You might be thinking, "wait, you said that the bus ride was only 5 hours". Well, the road work seemed to add at least another 3 to that. So we are getting violently rocked back and forth, up and down for HOURS while I am nauseous and have diarrhea (really, really bad diarrhea), it gets better - no bathroom. Everywhere we pull over does not have a bathroom option. Have you even held in your urine and bowels for so long and under such aggravating circumstances that you actually feel like you will pass out? Well, now I can check that off of my list.
So, I decide it is best just to try to go to sleep. Getting lulled by the bus motion wasn't easy, but after a little bit I managed it. Just as I nod off, the lady behind me on the aisle side pokes me on the head. I ignore her. Then the pokes me on the head again. I ignore her again. Third she hits me. I wake up and stare at her, thinking, "what the hell is your problem?" She motions to the window in front of me and motions for me to pull the curtain open. I fumble with it a little but it was stuck and wasn't worth the effort to me. So I just go back to sleep. A minute later she leaps to her feet and reaches over me, making sure to wake me up again with her elbow forcibly placed on my head to tear at the curtain. I can't even begin to tell you how incredible pissed off I was. Mind you, from where she was sitting she really wouldn't be able to even look out the window, much less appreciate the desolate view.
At the next stop off, she made sure to disturb me once again by whipping me in the face a couple of times with the curtain as she tried to tie it back before switching to a different seat which would make my window accessibly not necessary at all. In her new seat she immediately leaned over the woman at the window seat and tore away at that curtain too. She has thus been dubbed the "curtain Nazi". I never was able to really fall back asleep and every time she heard a curtain being moved the "CN" immediately shot me a disgusted look.
So finally, we are about 1 hour away from town and the bus breaks down! For the next 1.5 hours or so the driver and assistant battle the bus transmission every 200-300 meters or so. The bus driver can't shift gears and can only toggle between first and second gears with incredible difficulty. Then it breaks down. They go to fix it, toggle between first and second, break down, etc., etc., etc. Finally, it is unrepairable and they have another bus come and pick us up and drive us into town. We roll into to town just before midnight, we left at 2:30.
Anyhow, we are swarmed at the bus station right after we get off of the bus. I REALLY have to use the bathroom and am in no good mood to deal with the people looking to rip off the tourists.
Long story short, I'm still not in the best of health. Got a little food in me. Slept most of the day (our hotel is actually fairly quiet!) and will hopefully be able to enjoy my time here tomorrow.
Oh, happy birthday, Dad! I spent your special day getting sick on a bus and harassed by the window treatment gestapo. But ate at "Charlie's cafe" and had chocolate souffle in honor of your birthday (thanks for the excuse）！
Friday, July 14, 2006
Knicker Snickers
Hello from Lanzhou! It is polluted and hot here, but we were expecting that. It isn't helping my cold though. We are killing time, waiting for the train to Jiayuguan.
Lanzhou is okay, not great, just okay. There isn't a whole lot to see around here and the city is kind of ugly. We did make it out to see Binglingsi - another big Buddha carved on the side of a cliff type of thing. But it was a cool ride out there - mini bus and speed boat. This one was better preserved than some of the other sites as its remote location spared it from the Red Army during the Cultural Revolution which sadly destroyed many of China cultural relics. You can only go out to see it when the water level of the Yellow River is high enough.
Other than that, we attempted to go to another Provincial Museum and like before we were denied. I think there must be something going on at all of the provincial museums, everyone we have tried to go to has been closed. The city museum was okay, but not too exciting. There was a cool little pagoda, but there are many cool little pagodas in China. We were thinking about taking the chair lift up the mountain, but the smog is so bad we won't be able to see anything anyhow and might as well save the money for something worth while.
But, I must tell you all, I have some very bad news. It seems that, sigh, knickers are the "IT" wear for the summer season here. I can't even begin to tell you how stupid they look and how mad I get when I see them. Seriouly, unless you are 3 and don't know any better or a little dutch boy, knickers really don't have any business on anyone. Now, I know my mother would like to tell you all that even I had a pair of these maddening, blooming short pants (I think they were purple). Yeah, I know. But, I must point out that in my particular case this fashion faux pas falls into the youthful ignorance category rather than the delusional, "this is a hip trend" one. I wish that I could even begin to describe just how absolutely ridiculous they look on adults. Really, I do. But I just don't think that my language abilities allow me to capture all of the angst this particular fashion is causing me. I am not the biggest fan of capri pants either, but they never really made me angry. Yes, these pants actually make me feel anger and, well, sometimes they make me laugh/cry because they're dumb.
What else...
I think prostitutes have been calling our room. Yup. We had been getting calls between 7 - 11 PM in our hotel room. All women. All would say a super sugary sweet, "Ni hao!" before I said, "hello, what do you want?" in English. They - giggling. Me - hang up phone. Matt told me about how some prostitutes will call rooms at random for business.
Anyhow, I know it's summer and you all have a ton of other things to do besides sitting at the computer, but drop me a line or a comment sometime - we're a little e-lonely. And sorry for typos and misspellings, I am back to internet cafes and Chinese programs.
Lanzhou is okay, not great, just okay. There isn't a whole lot to see around here and the city is kind of ugly. We did make it out to see Binglingsi - another big Buddha carved on the side of a cliff type of thing. But it was a cool ride out there - mini bus and speed boat. This one was better preserved than some of the other sites as its remote location spared it from the Red Army during the Cultural Revolution which sadly destroyed many of China cultural relics. You can only go out to see it when the water level of the Yellow River is high enough.
Other than that, we attempted to go to another Provincial Museum and like before we were denied. I think there must be something going on at all of the provincial museums, everyone we have tried to go to has been closed. The city museum was okay, but not too exciting. There was a cool little pagoda, but there are many cool little pagodas in China. We were thinking about taking the chair lift up the mountain, but the smog is so bad we won't be able to see anything anyhow and might as well save the money for something worth while.
But, I must tell you all, I have some very bad news. It seems that, sigh, knickers are the "IT" wear for the summer season here. I can't even begin to tell you how stupid they look and how mad I get when I see them. Seriouly, unless you are 3 and don't know any better or a little dutch boy, knickers really don't have any business on anyone. Now, I know my mother would like to tell you all that even I had a pair of these maddening, blooming short pants (I think they were purple). Yeah, I know. But, I must point out that in my particular case this fashion faux pas falls into the youthful ignorance category rather than the delusional, "this is a hip trend" one. I wish that I could even begin to describe just how absolutely ridiculous they look on adults. Really, I do. But I just don't think that my language abilities allow me to capture all of the angst this particular fashion is causing me. I am not the biggest fan of capri pants either, but they never really made me angry. Yes, these pants actually make me feel anger and, well, sometimes they make me laugh/cry because they're dumb.
What else...
I think prostitutes have been calling our room. Yup. We had been getting calls between 7 - 11 PM in our hotel room. All women. All would say a super sugary sweet, "Ni hao!" before I said, "hello, what do you want?" in English. They - giggling. Me - hang up phone. Matt told me about how some prostitutes will call rooms at random for business.
Anyhow, I know it's summer and you all have a ton of other things to do besides sitting at the computer, but drop me a line or a comment sometime - we're a little e-lonely. And sorry for typos and misspellings, I am back to internet cafes and Chinese programs.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Outta Here!
Farewell banquets - check
Hours of the dice game - check
Hauling all of our stuff down to the post office to ship - check
Throwing the rest of it away - check
Contacting Gateway to make sure my computer won't explode at 16,000 feet - check (?)
Saying goodbye to 1,200 kids - check
As you may have guessed from my last post, the last was the most difficult to do. We got our train tickets to Lanzhou (will be leaving later tonight) and will be homeless again until August when we will journey to our new home in Beijing.
Right now it is peaceful in Guyuan. It is late Sunday night and there is really no noise. Quite a feat! No cabs honking, no people hacking, no cuckoos coo-kooing....Quite a contrast to the flurry of activity from the last couple of days. Many of the senior three teacher are going on a vacation together - a special reward from the school for doing such a good job with the students this past year (the senior three students from Yi Zhong were ranked really high for the National Exam).
So, this caused quite a bit of activity for us as we are trying to get everything all done before we head out of town too. Unfortunately for us, what we have on our plate is of little or no concern to them as long as we do what they want us to do. So much for a relaxed exit. Actually, with all of the hubbub and pomp concerning our arrival, our departure is rather anticlimactic (must like this post).
Anyhow, I won't go into the details as you probably can guess pretty well what the dinners are like and what goes on during 'em. I'll just fast forward to the result, I'm tired, irritated and sick. Yes, I am starting off yet another vacation ill. Foiled again by the family-style food sharing system. Luckily, most of the people who were concerned with our day to day lives are out of town so I won't have the "injection" threat looming this time.
So, for those of you who are curious: Guyuan to Lanzhou to Xining to Lhasa to Nanjing to Beijing. There will be some little side trips, but that is generally what our IT is shaping up to be.
So, farewell Guyuan! We have had some good, bad and interesting times together. I don't know if Beijing will be a better or not, but we know it will be a lot different. Hopefully we will be able to make it back a few times.
Stay tuned to posts from the road!
Hours of the dice game - check
Hauling all of our stuff down to the post office to ship - check
Throwing the rest of it away - check
Contacting Gateway to make sure my computer won't explode at 16,000 feet - check (?)
Saying goodbye to 1,200 kids - check
As you may have guessed from my last post, the last was the most difficult to do. We got our train tickets to Lanzhou (will be leaving later tonight) and will be homeless again until August when we will journey to our new home in Beijing.
Right now it is peaceful in Guyuan. It is late Sunday night and there is really no noise. Quite a feat! No cabs honking, no people hacking, no cuckoos coo-kooing....Quite a contrast to the flurry of activity from the last couple of days. Many of the senior three teacher are going on a vacation together - a special reward from the school for doing such a good job with the students this past year (the senior three students from Yi Zhong were ranked really high for the National Exam).
So, this caused quite a bit of activity for us as we are trying to get everything all done before we head out of town too. Unfortunately for us, what we have on our plate is of little or no concern to them as long as we do what they want us to do. So much for a relaxed exit. Actually, with all of the hubbub and pomp concerning our arrival, our departure is rather anticlimactic (must like this post).
Anyhow, I won't go into the details as you probably can guess pretty well what the dinners are like and what goes on during 'em. I'll just fast forward to the result, I'm tired, irritated and sick. Yes, I am starting off yet another vacation ill. Foiled again by the family-style food sharing system. Luckily, most of the people who were concerned with our day to day lives are out of town so I won't have the "injection" threat looming this time.
So, for those of you who are curious: Guyuan to Lanzhou to Xining to Lhasa to Nanjing to Beijing. There will be some little side trips, but that is generally what our IT is shaping up to be.
So, farewell Guyuan! We have had some good, bad and interesting times together. I don't know if Beijing will be a better or not, but we know it will be a lot different. Hopefully we will be able to make it back a few times.
Stay tuned to posts from the road!
Thursday, July 06, 2006
Heartbroken
This past mini-week has been really difficult. I really didn't think that I would bond so much with these kids, but I guess that I did and now I have to leave them. So, me very sad.
They changed the exam schedule, so I had lessons Mon., Tues., and Wed. So, I ended my teaching at Guyuan Junior School with one of my favorite classes. It was good, but really, really sad. I don't think that I have ever really been sad about leaving a place and people before. And, for those of you who might be wondering, yes, I did cry and I'm comfortable telling you all that. :-)
My Monday Junior classes weren't too hard to leave as we have had a lot of difficult classes. But my seniors! Geez - those kids were so wonderful, I am so sad to be leaving them. Every week that I had class with them was such a great experience. I just want to bring them all home with me. Many of these kids come from the country side and are really poor and don't really have anything (some can't afford to call home more than once a year). But they are just the most caring and warm hearted kids. I just want to give them the world.
Tuesday was really difficult. I had to say goodbye to two of my favorite classes - one of my kids told me that he was really having a bad day because his best friend was moving to Yinchuan the following day and that this was his last class with me. He is normally a very happy, smiley kid but that day he was just slumped on his desk with his face in his arms. We walked home together and he said that he can't stand it (just learned that phrase in class) and that he had to hurry home so he could cry. The other class was the famous class 6 - the class with Sam. I have had so many great times with that class, I just don't know where to begin. All I can say is that China just won't be as happy without my weekly dose of my posse. I can't even begin to tell you how much I loved these two classes.
My last day was yesterday, Wednesday. I decided to write goodbye letters to all of my classes, so I delivered all of the notes to the English teachers so they could help with the translation. The morning was a half 'n' half. One good junior one class, one bad. I hated saying goodbye to all of my little girls in my junior one class one - they decided to make a bunch of copies of my letter because it was written by a "real" English speaker and they wanted to always keep the words of Ms. Molly.
Oh man, I dreaded the afternoon. Matt and Ms. Wang sat in on one of my classes - Matt caused quite a stir of excitement. Then I spent the recess period with some of my favorite students and said goodbye. Then, oh god, my LAST class - Junior 2 Class 1. This is probably the friendliest class that I have had - they were so welcoming when I first came here and I don't think that there is a more friendly kind-hearted group of children out there, well besides groups of my other students.
We did my lesson - a fun ASL lesson and EVERYONE participated, even the students who usually don't do a whole lot in class really enjoyed it. We had a great last class together and I held it together pretty well (although I did have to excuse myself once). At the end of class, I told them how much I loved being their teacher and they all stood up and applauded, did a deep bow and thanked me for being their teacher. I excused them from class and was swarmed by people wanting me to autograph things (books, papers, uniforms, skin) and write a little message to them and get a last hug. I started to tear up. This was followed by, "Please teacher, don't be sad." Which, of course, made me want to cry more. But, I was able to restrain.
I was writing a message to one of my SFSs and he blurted out, "I love you so much Miss Molly. I will love you everyday you are gone more and more until I see you again and then I will be happy again. I don't want you to ever leave me." Then, he gave me a huge hug and, well, tears. He then said, "Oh, Miss Molly, please don't cry. Because when you cry I feel very sad and I want to cry to. But if I cry, my friends will hit me." This kid always makes me smile.
The last student I said goodbye to was another one of my SFSs. He gave me his necklace. He told me it was one of his favorite things and that he has worn it everyday since he got it (it is a tag with his name, birthday, and blood type and a little charm). I told him that I couldn't possibly take it as it was something that he loves. I refuse, refuse, refuse. Then he told me that he really wanted me to have it because he loves it so much. He wanted me to know how much that he loves me by giving it to me and that I have to take it so he will feel happy - also, to know that in some way we will always be together and be friends. Then he put it in my hands and threw his arms around me. I just lost it and tears just started to pour out.
By the time I left school, it was pretty empty - all of my usual gang had already left. So, my SFS and I had a nice casual walk and talk home all alone. It was a perfect way to say goodbye to my experience at Guyuan Yi Zhong and Guyuan Wu Yuan middle schools and just what I needed.
I was thanked so many times for coming to China to be their teacher and for what I have done for them. But, I strongly feel that I should be thanking them for what they have given me as it is so much more than what I could have ever possibly given them.
To all of my students, I will miss you all so very much, all of your smiling faces, I will remember you always and I love you.
They changed the exam schedule, so I had lessons Mon., Tues., and Wed. So, I ended my teaching at Guyuan Junior School with one of my favorite classes. It was good, but really, really sad. I don't think that I have ever really been sad about leaving a place and people before. And, for those of you who might be wondering, yes, I did cry and I'm comfortable telling you all that. :-)
My Monday Junior classes weren't too hard to leave as we have had a lot of difficult classes. But my seniors! Geez - those kids were so wonderful, I am so sad to be leaving them. Every week that I had class with them was such a great experience. I just want to bring them all home with me. Many of these kids come from the country side and are really poor and don't really have anything (some can't afford to call home more than once a year). But they are just the most caring and warm hearted kids. I just want to give them the world.
Tuesday was really difficult. I had to say goodbye to two of my favorite classes - one of my kids told me that he was really having a bad day because his best friend was moving to Yinchuan the following day and that this was his last class with me. He is normally a very happy, smiley kid but that day he was just slumped on his desk with his face in his arms. We walked home together and he said that he can't stand it (just learned that phrase in class) and that he had to hurry home so he could cry. The other class was the famous class 6 - the class with Sam. I have had so many great times with that class, I just don't know where to begin. All I can say is that China just won't be as happy without my weekly dose of my posse. I can't even begin to tell you how much I loved these two classes.
My last day was yesterday, Wednesday. I decided to write goodbye letters to all of my classes, so I delivered all of the notes to the English teachers so they could help with the translation. The morning was a half 'n' half. One good junior one class, one bad. I hated saying goodbye to all of my little girls in my junior one class one - they decided to make a bunch of copies of my letter because it was written by a "real" English speaker and they wanted to always keep the words of Ms. Molly.
Oh man, I dreaded the afternoon. Matt and Ms. Wang sat in on one of my classes - Matt caused quite a stir of excitement. Then I spent the recess period with some of my favorite students and said goodbye. Then, oh god, my LAST class - Junior 2 Class 1. This is probably the friendliest class that I have had - they were so welcoming when I first came here and I don't think that there is a more friendly kind-hearted group of children out there, well besides groups of my other students.
We did my lesson - a fun ASL lesson and EVERYONE participated, even the students who usually don't do a whole lot in class really enjoyed it. We had a great last class together and I held it together pretty well (although I did have to excuse myself once). At the end of class, I told them how much I loved being their teacher and they all stood up and applauded, did a deep bow and thanked me for being their teacher. I excused them from class and was swarmed by people wanting me to autograph things (books, papers, uniforms, skin) and write a little message to them and get a last hug. I started to tear up. This was followed by, "Please teacher, don't be sad." Which, of course, made me want to cry more. But, I was able to restrain.
I was writing a message to one of my SFSs and he blurted out, "I love you so much Miss Molly. I will love you everyday you are gone more and more until I see you again and then I will be happy again. I don't want you to ever leave me." Then, he gave me a huge hug and, well, tears. He then said, "Oh, Miss Molly, please don't cry. Because when you cry I feel very sad and I want to cry to. But if I cry, my friends will hit me." This kid always makes me smile.
The last student I said goodbye to was another one of my SFSs. He gave me his necklace. He told me it was one of his favorite things and that he has worn it everyday since he got it (it is a tag with his name, birthday, and blood type and a little charm). I told him that I couldn't possibly take it as it was something that he loves. I refuse, refuse, refuse. Then he told me that he really wanted me to have it because he loves it so much. He wanted me to know how much that he loves me by giving it to me and that I have to take it so he will feel happy - also, to know that in some way we will always be together and be friends. Then he put it in my hands and threw his arms around me. I just lost it and tears just started to pour out.
By the time I left school, it was pretty empty - all of my usual gang had already left. So, my SFS and I had a nice casual walk and talk home all alone. It was a perfect way to say goodbye to my experience at Guyuan Yi Zhong and Guyuan Wu Yuan middle schools and just what I needed.
I was thanked so many times for coming to China to be their teacher and for what I have done for them. But, I strongly feel that I should be thanking them for what they have given me as it is so much more than what I could have ever possibly given them.
To all of my students, I will miss you all so very much, all of your smiling faces, I will remember you always and I love you.
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Orchard Blossom
So, today was a really difficult day to me. I had to say goodbye to two of my favorite Junior 1 classes. Many tears. I will miss them all so much! Tomorrow will be a long and hard day for me. It will be my last day teaching and I will go from first period t the very last period with a dinner banquet to wrap up the day. My last class at the middle school will be my Junior 2 class 1 - a class that I am very close to. I don't know how to say goodbye to them.
Today, I was just hanging out with some of the kids between classes when one of the kids started to sniff my arm. Shortly after me asking him what he was doing, he ran away and yelled something in Chinese. Suddenly, I am surrounded by kids all trying to get a whiff of the laoshi.
Finally, one of the kids said that I smelled "beautiful", another said like a "sweet apple" the others agreed that my scent was very pleasing and continued to jockey for a good sniffing position.
Their head teacher casually strolled by just as a couple of students were inhaling my underarm odor treatment. He walked about 10 paces down the hall, came to a complete stop and turned on his heal, just to make sure that he did just see a crowd of kids smelling their teacher. He stood there a little dumbstruck? amused? befuddled? before laughing a little, shaking his head and continuing down to his office.
It is very strange to have about 50 people smell you, have others watching you being whiffed and being given some sort of passing approval about the whole ordeal.
Today, I was just hanging out with some of the kids between classes when one of the kids started to sniff my arm. Shortly after me asking him what he was doing, he ran away and yelled something in Chinese. Suddenly, I am surrounded by kids all trying to get a whiff of the laoshi.
Finally, one of the kids said that I smelled "beautiful", another said like a "sweet apple" the others agreed that my scent was very pleasing and continued to jockey for a good sniffing position.
Their head teacher casually strolled by just as a couple of students were inhaling my underarm odor treatment. He walked about 10 paces down the hall, came to a complete stop and turned on his heal, just to make sure that he did just see a crowd of kids smelling their teacher. He stood there a little dumbstruck? amused? befuddled? before laughing a little, shaking his head and continuing down to his office.
It is very strange to have about 50 people smell you, have others watching you being whiffed and being given some sort of passing approval about the whole ordeal.
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