Tuesday, August 01, 2006

The Great Tibetan Get Together

Hello all!

Another quick update from the roof top of the world. So we have officially begun seeing stuff on our mandatory tour. Today we eventually were able to see the Jokhang Temple. The outer structures are always really interesting to look at, but the inside was a lot of gold plaster statues. It was neat to see all of the worshippers add butter to the lamps as they made their rounds at the temple - all of the worshippers and the tourists really made it quite cramped some times in the little chapel rooms. Our tour guide is Tibetan which is good because then he can tell us about Tibetan Buddhism and what all of the statues are. The inside was interesting, the floor was really slippery because of all of the butter and soot like stuff. The most interesting though were watching all of the worshippers with their beads and wheels/rattles going around and adding yak butter to all of the candle lamps in the various chapels. Later today we will go out to the Sera Monastery. I will post later about that.

It took us awhile to get started today because of a mix-up that wound up pissing me off like something fierce. We went to to travel agency for our mandatory tour and wound up waiting for over an hour after the supposed start time. It turns out that there was a lot of confusion about our hotel room - we had asked the agent in Xining to try to help us pre-book a room in Lhasa as we had heard that hotel rooms were a little difficult to come by. So, she called an agency in Lhasa and told us that there was "no booking" but to stop by the travel agency next to the Banak Shol Hotel and they would help us find a room (this is what I remember, everyone seems to have a different version of events) she also gave us a number to call to set up the tour. We arrive and go to the travel agency next to the Banak Shot Hotel. They didn't have a room for us, they didn't really know what we were talking about. But they did help us find a room at a place not too far away (the Pata Hotel).

The next day we contacted the man for the tour. We briefly met him and he gave us his card. He told us to meet him at his office at the Banak Shol the next day for the start of the tour. So, we go there and he's not at the tour place that we originally went to, but there was another, poorly marked tour agency on the second floor of the hotel. So we go there and wait. A little later we find out that another guy working for that tour agency booked and paid for a room for us at the Banak Shol hotel and was demanding that we pay him 140 yuan for the room that we didn't wind up staying in. We say that what he was telling us was not what we were told and that we should not have to pay it, but because it was a misunderstanding between us and they agencies, we would pay half. He would not budge and just kept on saying the same thing. What a shyster! I can't stand people like that.

Lhasa is really a beautiful place to visit. The government has just made it such an incredible rip off for the non-Chinese tourist to visit. We decided to fly, in order to do so you need a permit, in order to get the permit you must sign on to a tour. The permit alone costs about 400 yuan, but the mandatory tour (which does not include admissions costs) costs another 1020 yuan. This includes a 4 person room and a public toilet - something we really did not want. So, we were able to get them to knock off the room cost, but still the tour is a huge rip off - an incredible racket to fleece tourists.

Anyhow, so getting here is quite expensive but I guess in the long run it will be worth it. I just hate all of the added costs - in one way or another China will make you pay.

So, yesterday we made another round at the market - Matt caught up with a couple of clingy beggars. We haven't bought anything yet, but will do so after our outing to the Everest Base Camp. It is fun to be at the market though, to see all of the worshippers making their way around the kora, all of the PSB officials watching all of the worshippers and looking up to see the cameras mounted on top of some buildings watching all of us. We also saw an uncomfortable situation with a young Tibetan woman shop assistant and an old PSB officer - a really creepy encounter in which he was whisking her away to an upstairs room area.

Oh, the title! The MN State Fair is known as "The Great Minnesota Get Together" - so, this is nothing like that, but mobs of people following an invisible path around outside while looking at booths of stuff, the butter sculptures, the food on a stick and the fried cheese curds...well i just couldn't help the analogy.

I will end this post with, yaks are awesome! Bye-bye!

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